MakerJig › Guides › PETG vs PLA
PETG vs PLA: which filament should you use?
PLA is easier to print and gives sharper detail. PETG is tougher, bends before it breaks and copes with more heat and sunlight. For most decorative prints, start with PLA; for parts that take knocks, heat or the outdoors, use PETG.
Quick pick: desk toys, models, lithophanes, Gridfinity bins in a cool room → PLA. Car parts, outdoor brackets, anything near a hot window, snap-fit clips → PETG.
PETG vs PLA at a glance
| PLA | PETG | |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of printing | Easiest; forgiving on most printers | Easy, but strings more and needs tuning |
| Typical nozzle temperature | About 190–220 °C | About 220–250 °C |
| Typical bed temperature | About 50–60 °C | About 70–85 °C |
| Softens with heat at roughly | 55–60 °C (a hot car can warp it) | About 75–80 °C |
| Strength | Stiff and strong, but brittle: snaps when bent | Tougher: flexes and resists impact |
| Outdoors and UV | Poor over time | Better |
| Surface and detail | Crisp detail, matte or silk finishes | Glossy; fine detail is slightly softer |
| Enclosure needed | No | No |
When to choose PLA
- First prints and quick prototypes. PLA prints well with default slicer profiles and rarely warps.
- Detailed or decorative parts. Figures, vases, signs and models come out crisp.
- Lithophanes. White PLA is the usual choice for even light through the print. See the best lithophane thickness.
- Indoor storage. Gridfinity bins and organisers in a normal room are fine in PLA.
When to choose PETG
- Parts that get knocked or flexed. Clips, hinges, tool holders and brackets survive better.
- Heat. Anything in a car, near a radiator or in a sunny window.
- Outdoors. Garden parts and mounts last longer than PLA.
- Water and moisture. PETG is widely used for parts that get wet, though layer lines can still trap water.
Printing tips for PETG
- Stringing: increase retraction a little and lower the temperature in small steps.
- Too much grip: PETG can bond hard to a smooth PEI sheet. Use a textured sheet or a release agent such as glue stick.
- Cooling: use less part cooling than for PLA (often 30–50%) for better layer bonding.
- Dry the filament: PETG absorbs moisture, which causes popping and stringing.
What about cost?
PLA and PETG spools usually cost about the same per kilogram. The real cost of a part also includes electricity, printer wear and failed prints. Work it out with the 3D print cost calculator.
FAQ
- Is PETG stronger than PLA?
- It depends on what you mean by strong. PLA is stiffer and can hold more load before bending, but it snaps suddenly. PETG bends first and absorbs impacts, so it survives drops and flexing better. For most functional parts that is what matters.
- Is PETG harder to print than PLA?
- Slightly. It needs a hotter nozzle and bed, strings more and can stick too well to smooth beds. Most modern printers handle it with a standard PETG profile.
- Can I print PETG and PLA on the same printer?
- Yes, on almost any printer that reaches about 250 °C at the nozzle and 80 °C at the bed. Change the slicer profile when you swap filament.
- Which is better for outdoor use?
- PETG. PLA softens in summer heat and breaks down in sunlight over time. For long outdoor life or high heat, ASA is a step up again, but it needs an enclosure.
- Is PLA or PETG food safe?
- The plastics themselves are used in food packaging, but a printed part is not automatically food safe: layer lines trap bacteria, and the nozzle or colourants may not be food grade. Treat printed parts as not food safe unless you seal them with a certified coating.